Over the years I searched for things to wear with my bracelet casually and for more formal occasions. Not finding much I took matters into my own hands and have designed several pieces that are fun and elegant to wear.
Search our bracelets and choose one to start your stack - or contact me to create something new!
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What I am finding is that when I offer lab "cultured" diamonds as an option, and fully explain what they are, most of my newer clients are opting for the lab stones.
Why? For a few reasons. The most compelling is that on average a lab diamond is 40-50% less expensive than a mined one. Which means if you were to buy a certified G VS diamond with an excellent cut you would pay approximately 40% less for a comparable size and quality G VS lab diamond.
Another option is to get a larger comparable diamond and still save money. So lets say a budget allowed for a 1.5 ct round brilliant G VS EX cut mined diamond, if buying a lab grown diamond, same color and quality, the same budget would allow for a 2.0 ct diamond. Two of my clients have opted to split the difference and get a 1.75 ct diamond and put a few dollars back in their pocket.
But the most compelling reason seems to be the endorsement by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) whereby they have clearly stated that there are now two types of "real" diamonds;
Mined and Lab Cultured Diamonds.
To better educate my clients - this is the information I am sharing - with more to come!
1. my blog post about Lab Diamonds:
2. For those really interested in the industry information …
the Final Revision to Jewelry Guides by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
Specifically look at Section H (pg 79) and the conclusion on page 87-
"Finally, the Commission removes the term “synthetic” from the examples of possible qualifications."
and Section I on Page 93-94
However, the Commission cautions marketers that it would be deceptive to use the terms “real,” “genuine,” “natural,” or “synthetic” to imply that a lab-grown diamond (i.e., a product with essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as a mined diamond) is not, in fact, an actual diamond. As discussed below, the Commission no longer defines a “diamond” by using the term “natural” because it is no longer accurate to define diamonds as “natural” when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds.358
Big blow to the mined diamond industry but regardless - providing an accurate cert from a reputable grading agency is certainly my preference.
A few more summary links.
"Diamonds and Pearls" - and revisions to the FTC's Jewelry Guides:
and an article published by Forbes on the subject:
Of course the proof is in how it looks!
Custom Oval Lab Diamond Engagement Ring
Bezel Diamond Necklace with Lab Cultured Diamonds
$2950 with Lab diamonds vs $4150 with Mined diamonds
for more information email me directly or call 516-422-1220
amy@theperfectsetting.com
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Well I question everything I read - and this was no exception. So I set out to learn more and more importantly, decide if I wanted to sell "cultured diamonds" to my clients.
This is what I discovered:
Wow! Sounds almost too good to be true - but it's not.
Listen, lots has changed in my lifetime from technology. And truth-be-told as a LOVER of diamonds, initially I was thinking no way!
But does it really matter where it's grown? No.
Will the diamonds look different in the same way a tomato grown in the ground tastes different than a hydroponic one? Maybe. But like tomatoes, that can taste different even if grown in the same garden, mined diamonds all look different too - as it has always depended upon where the rough comes from. Which is why I have always loved diamonds! Each has special characteristics that makes it unique in it's own way.
Which brings me to an important point - for my clients and consumers -
Just like with mined diamonds, you get what you pay for , the same is true here. But I am not going where you think.
Lab created "cultured" diamonds are so "real" that just like mined diamonds some will be better than others - its just that unlike mined diamonds where most are on the low end and very few are colorless and without flaws, lab diamonds are the opposite - they are being produced of the utmost quality in color and clarity - and their sizes are growing - rapidly.
The one element that will be interesting to watch is with regard to the cut. Just as I wrote in a blog a few years ago that in my opinion cut is the most important element of the 4C's - the same will apply here. So knowing the origin of not just the diamond will be required - knowing who and where it was cut will not only impact the beauty of these new diamonds - but also the cost to us consumers.
To be continued....for sure!
Sincerely,
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From Matt
"I have some Jimmy Buffett guitar strings and am interested in possibly creating a similar piece....I have two questions. First, can you guarantee I will receive this by Christmas? Second... I would like something engraved inside the bracelet. Can/does the proposed price include the engraving? The text is approximately 40 characters. Please advise. Thanks again! in advance and I look forward to hearing from you."
- Matt D
From Me
Hi Matt Got photos / there is definitely enough to work with in length- as it's too big for you - we would need to add two strings / and as mentioned- there is a chance these strings will not be straight again - so something to think about - but I think it could work... as far as engraving not a problem - send me what you want it to say"
Amy
When Matt sent me his strings I realized that in fact they had twisted the one string twice.
Since he only had one string some decisions had to be made about the other three - we decided on D'Addario Acuoustic Guitar strings - Phosphor Bronze. The rep at Sam Ash suggested EJ16 as they were a little warmer in color than a few other types.
In addition, we made a few design changes to accommodate the difference in string ends as well.
The end result is beautiful and wearable.
"I cannot say enough good things about Amy. Such a wonderful piece that I will wear for many years. Thanks again!"
To purchase a new cuff or customize your own click below to get started -
https://theperfectsetting.com/products/guitar-string-cuff-bracelet-eric-clapton-jewelry
]]>Natural Platinum vs Natural White Gold |
In my business trust & reputation go hand-in-hand. And they should.
When buying fine jewelry and diamonds - whether in person or via the internet, - quite a bit of trust is required. Not just about the quality of the gemstone, or the price, but trust that the advice being given and the choices offered suit your needs as the buyer.
There is nothing worse than setting a budget and then going over it. I always explain that when I ask for a budget - give me the high end. Not because I will be looking to spend every penny, but rather so that I may show options within the budget and let my client choose.
To make this point, the photo here shows that the most expensive diamond wasn't necessarily the prettiest. My method of comparison saved my client $2000 (that he was prepared to spend) and we made a spectacular ring exactly the way he wanted for less than expected.
While the set budget allowed, there was a $2000 price difference between the E/VS2 diamond & the H/SI1 diamond we chose which in person was a prettier diamond. |
The beauty about finding a jeweler that does not keep inventory is that we are not limited to "sell" what we have.
For each project, I contact my diamond dealers directly and personally compare several stones to narrow the choices down for my clients. For budget purposes, I like to present three to four options per project that reflect;
1. the high end of the budget
2. the next level down
3. the level down from that
Only after a full comparison will a buyer feel confident that they have explored all possibilities and be able to make a good sound decision for the diamond we use in their new jewelry.
While the GIA has done a terrific job in classifying diamonds for consumers, time and time again, I advise my clients to not just look at the Certification Report, but rather to look at the diamonds, or hire a a professional to do so, as no two diamonds are exactly the same, which is what makes each stone and gem so beautiful!
client review of the diamond selection process:
"Amy, thank you so much. The ring is beautiful! You are the best at what you do. Your explanations and demonstrations were clear and concise. As a result, I felt that I had a good understanding of diamonds and what I was purchasing. It was a great experience and the end result was perfect. Oh, and Angela loves it!" Michael H, North Franklin, CT
them several cushion cut stones as well as matched her original diamond with another one so each would flank the new diamond.
To keep things straight, I engraved the year under each side stone to identify which was part of the original ring as well as reflect the years of both their wedding and their anniversary.
The end result is both a beautiful new yet sentimental setting.
If you would like to create a new ring like this or incorporate and existing stone call Amy at 516-422-1220 or email amy@theperfectsetting.com
]]>A few weeks ago I received a new client request regarding an accident and finger injury - and a photo of the remains of a Tiffany ring set that had been cut off a finger and destroyed. Judy had taken her rings to two different places, one solution was entirely new settings for both, which was not a good solution, as they would still not fit over her finger. Another place simply soldered them back together, and as she was wearing them on the other hand, the solder snapped and she was left with two rings in pieces again.
I knew I could fix her engagement ring issue using a custom adjustable shank. Understandably she also wanted to wear her wedding band so we created a "double" adjustable shank - soldering both rings together and making a thick opening band.
The result is both pretty, functional and seamless.
From my client : I am absolutely thrilled with my rings as Amy repaired and modified them. After my accident, I took my rings to two different places, one solution was entirely new settings for both, which was not a good solution, as they would still not fit over my finger. Another place simply soldered them back together, and I was wearing them on the other hand, but then the solder snapped and I was left with two rings in pieces again. Working with Amy, we discussed our options, and she recommended the opening setting. I was very pleased with her communication and promptness throughout the entire process, and being so flexible with me. And now that I have my rings back and in one easy piece, I'm elated! Fantastic work and I will recommend Amy to anyone who needs custom jewelry or any jewelry for that matter!
I'm a very happy customer! - Judy C, Middleburg, VA
!
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The Process:
click to view full details http://theperfectsetting.com/collections/for-him/products/hudson-train-new-york-central-5344-tie-clip-and-bar
Client comments:
"Working with Amy on this tie clip for my husband was a pleasure. My husband is big into Lionel trains and has a huge collection. I thought this would be a unique gift. At first I didn't think it would come out as spectacular as it did nor did I think we could even create it. Amy made it easy and enjoyable to work with. Thank you Amy for making George's 10th anniversary gift so special." Joyce K, Lloyd Harbor, NY
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No one knows exactly how long birthstones have been a tradition, but some people speculate that they date all the way back to biblical times when priests would wear a zodiac pendant with 12 stones, each one representing a month in the year. It wasn’t until 1912 that the American National Association of Jewelers released an official list designating certain stones to specific months, and thus creating the modern tradition of wearing only the gemstone associated with the month of your birth.
Diamond jewelry can be anything you’d like. From delicate stud earrings to pendant necklaces and dazzling tennis bracelets, the only limitation is your imagination! Work with owner Amy Certilman from The Perfect Setting to create a unique design, find a stunning antique or vintage piece, or simply choose something from her beautifully designed collection. With hundreds of different designs and a broad price range, you’re sure to find the perfect birthday gift from The Perfect Setting that will put a smile on her face and a twinkle in her eye!
Often dubbed the “King of all birthstones,” the diamond is one of the most loved gemstones of all time. This April, surprise someone you love with a birthday gift that they’ll treasure for a lifetime. Get started with us online, or call us today at (516) 422-1220.
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I have worked with countless women who do not like the jewelry they've been given but they don't want to discourage their man from buying them nice things.
Like much in life, communication is key. And,contrary to romance novels where the dashing man always knows exactly what his beautiful wife wants,you may need to speak up a bit and get more involved in the process if you want to get jewelry you will love to wear.
If you want your honey to give you jewelry you will be in love with, follow these tips to insure you will always get the jewelry of your dreams!
TIPS for how to be involved in picking out your jewelry:
Remember, you only have ten fingers, one neck and two earlobes, which is why...
Below I have outlined the guidelines used by the GIA (The Gemological Institute of America), which is where I received my training. I chose GIA as I found their standards to be the most rigorous in the industry. When price shopping and purchasing diamonds I am of course partial to their practices and when buying, especially one without an official GIA Certificate, I use the same criteria a diamond grader from the GIA would use to evaluate and rate the diamond I am looking at.
I recommend using the GIA standard when buying diamonds with or without a certificate. There are times when I buy or sell a non-certified diamond, and if selling a non-GIA stone I clearly explain the characteristics and differences in terminology to my clients. I recommend if buying a non-GIA certified diamond you clearly understand the difference, as you will read below, even when you buy a diamond with a certificate, it is still a diamond that was graded by an individual with a subjective range of standards.
The 4 C’s
Color
One of the first things they teach in diamond school is that when judging the color of a diamond you must – I repeat must – use a master set. In other words, while an appraiser can estimate the color of a stone on a white piece of paper, the only way to truly judge a stone’s color is to compare it to another stone that has already been graded.
Why? Because the color grade of a diamond is not absolute, it is a range. A grader takes a diamond and first “guesses” by looking at it face up and face down in a small white paper dish. Once a “guesstimate” is made, the stone is taken to a master set that has a sample diamond representing colorless “D” through light yellow “M”. The grader has to decide which color most closely matches the master set. So while two diamonds might be assigned a “G” or near colorless, one stone might be closer to “F” or what I call a “G+” while the other is closer to “H” what I call a “G-“… yet both would be graded a “G” by the GIA method.
Clarity
The clarity of a stone is also subjective. When discussing clarity we are talking about the inclusions also known as visible “flaws” in a diamond. Most diamonds I buy for clients are in the VS (Very Slight) or SI (Slightly Included) range. So what is the difference? Well for both stones it would be very difficult to see an inclusion with the naked eye. The GIA standard is to grade a diamond using a microscope with no more than 10x magnification.
A diamond grader looking at a stone that is SI means that it is slightly include and a trained eye can find the inclusions quickly. My instructor at the GIA gave us four simple buzzwords to help us categorize inclusions for clarity grading. Minute inclusions would grade a stone VVS (very very slightly). Minor inclusions VS (very slightly). Noticeable inclusions SI(slightly included), and finally, when inclusions are obvious the stone is graded in the I range for included.
And there’s more. For each category, as a grader, we must decide if the stone is VVS1 or VVS2 – in other words very very slightly included or a bit more very very slightly included.
Cut This is a more definite calculation and is probably the most undervalued “C” by consumers, yet for dealers and buyers, next to color, the most important for sale-ability of a stone. The cut of a diamond gives it its scintillation or its “sparkle”. A diamond with an EX or excellent cut will have more sparkle than a diamond with VG or very good. Diamonds rated G for good and F for fair are what is used in most retail, online and commercial goods. Most fine jewelry uses EX or VG cut diamonds.
Before I took my diamond lab class at the GIA, like many consumers, when comparing diamonds I looked at two of the 4c's - color and clarity.
And then I looped and compared hundreds of diamonds. And a funny thing happened. I had just graded a G VVS diamond with a "good" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone. Then, just after, I graded a G SI2 diamond with an "excellent" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone.
While the clarity - or amount of visible inclusions under a loop was far better in the first stone/VVS - the scintillation or "sparkle" or the second/SI was far better - and would definitely be the stone I would prefer to own and wear.
And guess what? There is a huge difference in price - a G VS being far more expensive.
Carat
Simply put this is the weight of a diamond. Usually it will be abbreviated on a sales ticket. TW or CTW when adding the weight of all the diamonds in a setting.
List of Common Diamond Rating Agencies:
Thank you for reading my blog, and as always, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
all photos from the GIA website.
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This is the story of the "Lotus Flower Ring" ...
Photo of Finished Custom Lotus Flower Ring |
Below is an email I received from a potential new client:
"Hello, I am very interested in creating a custom ring setting. I would very much like something that is fairly unique. I have some stones that I would like to include in the ring design. The center stone is a 1.25 Ct round brilliant diamond. It is ideal cut and E-color. I also have an assortment of round cut sapphires that I would like used as stones set into the ring."
The photo he sent me of the "idea" he had was of a stock setting off the internet that he wanted to customize. He liked the design elements on the side, specifically the accent stones for the band as he had some sapphires he wanted to incorporate into the setting.
Internet photo sent by client |
We spoke on the telephone for awhile and after getting to know more about him and his fiancee, the idea of a 'flower' took hold for the center stone and was tossed into the mix. When I suggested a lotus flower, he revealed that he is Hindu and his fiancée is Chinese. The lotus flower represents both of their cultures. Since we had so many loose sapphires to work with, I asked if there was a specific number that had any symbolism as well. He told me the number eight was significant so the decision was made to design a ring with eight accent stones - four on either side of the band.
I sketched out a few concept ideas and generated a CAD image based off of those ideas and our conversations.
I simply LOVED the design, and my client very politely got back to me:
"Hi Amy,
I do very much like this design, but I have one slight modification in mind. When we talked, you really got me hooked on the idea of a lotus shape. This looks slightly more like a tulip to me. I do like the shape of the 4 prongs like petals, and I'm wondering if we could keep that and add sort of smaller "petals" in between. I realize this may mean sacrificing the two diamonds where you have them now, but if we added these four smaller petals, perhaps they could also accommodate the diamonds?"
Hmmmm - right he is....so my CAD tech and I renamed the image the "Tulip Ring" (and laughed that one day we will make it) and added a few more petals to transform to the "Lotus Flower Ring"
Revised CAD image for client approval |
I asked for his thoughts on the new design and got what I was looking for -
"Hi Amy, I'm so sorry. I just got out of meeting. The ring is beautiful. Please start as soon as you can."
Next the wax was made for final approval and a week later cast in platinum.
Next he sent me the stones to be set.
Now I have seen a lot of sapphires but WOW! The quality of the sapphires he was using is beyond belief. They have been in a family safe for years and are the MOST VIVID BLUE I have ever seen. Additionally, in his 'little box of stones" was a magnificent 2 carat sapphire that we will get certified from the Gemological Institute. If it too is natural and unheated it is quite valuable and rare.
So back to our ring.... the cast was made, the stones were set, and I sent this photo of the finished product prior to shipping -
Photo sent to client before shipping "Hi Amy! Wow. I am blown away. It looks incredible! The pictures are so lovely. I already shared it with my mother and she is equally thrilled. |
The next day his ring was delivered and picked up - received this note -
"Hi Amy, I meant to email you Saturday, but I didn't get the chance. FedEx delivered the ring around 10:30, so everything went perfectly. It looks really great, and I'm very excited to give it to her. I will follow up with you after new year . I am very pleased with everything we did. The timeline, price, and of course the design were all as perfect as I could imagine. I will definitely write a testimonial, and I plan on working with you again in the future!"
I asked him if he could put that on LInkedIn as client testimonials are crucial to my business - and I am so flattered by what he wrote. My clients get beautiful jewelry, and I get beautiful notes. Love it!!
Testimonial on LinkedIn -
"Beyond the obvious beauty of her designs (see her website and it is immediately clear!), Amy was a pleasure to work with because she was very quick, organized, and made sure I understood the design process from beginning to end. She met a very tight deadline for the ring that I custom designed through her, and the result were exquisite. This was the first time I worked with a custom designer, but I know that she is who I will always go through in the future. She is very personable and responsive, and she has a valuable understanding of all aspects of jewelry - she is a great designer but also can help with having family stones certified/appraised, having rough stones cut, buying loose gems or diamonds, etc. I couldn't have made a better choice."
Siddharth P, Hamilton, NJ
Finished Lotus Flower Engagement Ring |
Interested in this ring? Click here for pricing and ordering details
- Amy Certilman, Owner of The Perfect Setting
]]>There are many types of adjustable shanks, and I will discuss the options available, but my favorite mechanism is clean and provides the maximum flexibly with the most safety.
So why did I choose this for my custom designs? There are several
adjustable and expandable shanks on the market - but I am a safety freak and the thought of a ring opening and falling off - well I couldn't sleep at night. So the mechanisms I use is the safest and most reliable and it looks fantastic!
How it works:
The mechanism is comfortable and easy to use, and in addition to being a must have for swollen
knuckles and arthritis, most of us have one hand larger than the other, or simply want the flexibility of wearing the same ring on more than one finger.
The opening of these shanks makes the ring wearable on both hands simply by opening the latch and extending the ring easily over your finger.
Simply put "it
opens 3 sizes to pass over the knuckle, then closes to fit the smaller part of the finger where the ring is worn."
Cost. This is a consideration as the shank does add to the cost of a setting. With skilled labor to solder and to make a new setting, prices range depending upon the scope of the project.
Even with the extra cost, my clients that have decided to have an expandable ring are LOVING IT!
"My husband and I are thrilled with my newly remade engagement ring. Sadly my ring in its original setting was way too small to fit over my knuckles , however, my finger was still about the same size. Amy suggested the adjustable band to allow me to wear it on both fingers and create a sleek, comfortable fit. We had never heard of this option and it worked out beautifully. The end result is beyond gorgeous. The fit is perfect and will never have to be remade!"
- Mary & Todd K., Laurel Hollow, NY
Got a new adjustable ring base I love, makes it so easy to get on & off over my knuckles, brilliant innovation!! and my 34 year old engagement ring looks better than the day I got it !! LOVE It !!
Pamela M. Lloyd Harbor, NY
As I mentioned, there are other adjustable shanks on the market. I think this photo collage illustrates why I prefer the mechanism I use over another popular Superfit® brand. Seriously, I would never wear a ring that just "opens" so I could never recommend such a mechanism to my clients.
"I am absolutely thrilled with my rings as Amy repaired and modified them. After my accident, I took my rings to two different places, one solution was entirely new settings for both, which was not a good solution, as they would still not fit over my finger. Another place simply soldered them back together, and I was wearing them on the other hand, but then the solder snapped and I was left with two rings in pieces again. Working with Amy, we discussed our options, and she recommended the opening setting. I was very pleased with her communication and promptness throughout the entire process, and being so flexible with me. And now that I have my rings back and in one easy piece, I'm elated!
Fantastic work and I will recommend Amy to anyone who needs custom jewelry or any jewelry for that matter!
I'm a very happy customer!!! - Judy C, Middleburg, VA -
I was contacted by a successful businesswoman who lives in Maryland. She had lost all hope of ever having a substantial diamond ring for her very tiny size 4 finger. I had recently designed a necklace for a colleague of hers and in her words I was her "last hope".
Simply put, she wanted a large three stone diamond ring - the center about 1.5 cts and the two side diamonds to be a "big as possible without looking like side stones".
Mary had gone to several jewelers who advertised that they would customize rings but all had said what she wanted "couldn't be done". Well, I LOVE a challenge!
Truth-be-told, this project wasn't really the challenge Mary had presented to me and she was such a pleasure to work with! We did have to change the model to fit her finger, which is what custom jewelry making is all about.
The Process (Illustrated in Photo Collage Below):
Typically when making a custom ring I chose the diamonds first, then make the setting - in this case, I first made the setting to ensure that the size stones we wanted would fit. The first CAD image was approved and I had the ring cast in a base metal to send to Mary and test the sizing. While it fit her size four finger, the curve of the stones was more than she wanted - so I adjusted the design to raise the side stones and "flatten out" the top of the ring a bit - not only was this a more comfortable option, but the look of the ring became much more dramatic!
The next step was to select the diamonds to meet her quality and price specifications. Once the diamonds were selected I adjusted the prongs and depth of the setting to accommodate the stones.
We next cast her ring in two parts - the trellis/gallery was cast in 18K yellow gold and the base of the ring in platinum.
The pieces were soldered together; the diamonds set and Mary got her new ring delivered a few days later.
“Amy is fantastic at blending her own expertise and her client's wishes to deliver beyond expectations. She has great listening skills but is not afraid to give advice as well--just what an expert should be.” From LinkedIn - qualities: Great Results, Expert, Creative
I was contacted on January 26th to recreate a marquise diamond scroll ring and create a matching ring without a stone - the rings were needed in California by April 1st. We started right away and 24 days later designed and produced the two rings as ordered - below is our "Creation Story". Thanks for reading!
From the Client:
"Originally my plan was to have this style of ring customized with a different pattern (double reverse meander with 1 turn which forms a series of 'S's forwards and backwards representing the intials of our first names - Satchel & Stuart) which my fiancee and I had discussed. To my surprise when she saw this pattern, she abandoned the idea of the other pattern, feeling it doesn't compliment the style as much as the pattern shown here. So...I like to discuss making a matching set of rings - one for her with the marquise diamond, and one for me without the diamond. The rings would be needed by the 1st of April." Stu, Long Beach, California - January 26th, 2013
Step #1 - Start to search for a marquise diamond that would fit the style, shape and size of the ring - size 8 - as well as the given budget. After comparing about half-dozen stones, three were identified and the choice was between two.
Step #2 - Create a matching Scroll Ring - decided that the back should not taper. Sent client CAD image for approval on February 5, 2113.
On February 15th got the go-ahead to size, polish, clean and set the diamond
From my client:
"Amy the rings are simply beautiful, much more than imagined - I'm really at a loss for words right now!. Their presentation during the wedding ceremony in April will certainly capture the heart of my lady, and will be treasured during our lifetime, and by those to whom we'll pass these along. Thank you so much for these creations!! Stu" - February 21, 2012